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Centella Asiatica Extract

March 27,2023

1.Product Introduction

Centella Asiatica Extract (Gotu Kola extract)contains a variety of triterpenoids of α - Amyrin, The main effective cosmetic ingredients are Asiatic Acid,Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside and Madecassoside, which belong to the triterpenoid saponins and are derived from the dried whole grass of the Umbrellaceae plant Centella asiatica.Scientific research has proved that the active ingredients of Centella asiatica can stimulate the production of type I and type III collagen, they can reduce skin hardness, improve skin nutrition, and promote skin metabolism.

Asiatic acid and Madecassic Acid, have powerful effects of inhibiting tyrosinase, lightening melanosis, antioxidation and anti-inflammatory, and can effectively stimulate the synthesis and extension of skin collagen.

Asiaticoside and Madecassoside are natural plant active ingredients with anti-inflammatory characteristics. As an "all-around player", Centella asiatica extract can be used in scar repair, acne removal, anti-allergy, whitening and anti-oxidation cosmetics and hair shampoo.The Centella asiatica extract grown and produced by Nuoz has a variety of specifications.

2.Origin

Centella Asiatica(Scientific name:Centella asiatica (L.) Urban)is dried whole grass of the Umbrellaceae plant Centella asiatica.It is a perennial creeping herb, often curled into a ball, with slender stems and tuberous roots.Centella Asiatica is produced in India and widely distributed in the tropical and subtropical regions of the world. In China, it is mainly distributed in provinces south of the Yangtze River.Centella asiatica likes to grow in wet river banks, marshes and grasslands. Centella asiatica has a medicinal history of more than 2000 years in China. Many other countries and regions, such as Madagascar, South Africa, India, Southeast Asian countries and South America, also use Centella asiatica as a brain tonic, diuretic, adjunct to leprosy, ulcer and skin disease.The main active ingredients that can be used in cosmetics are Asiatic Acid,Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside and Madecassoside.

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3.Specification & quality standard of Centella asiatica extract

Product Name Specification Color
Centella Asiatica Extract 10~70% Asiaticosides Light yellow
10~90% Madecassoside White
36-44% Asiaticoside(HPLC),54-66% Asiatic Acid+Madecassic(Titration method) White

4.Main efficacy and mechanism of Centella asiatica extract

Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory
Centella asiatica extract has certain inhibitory effect on Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus and Acne bacillus.Asiatic acid can dissolve the outer wax film of bacteria and be killed by other drugs or body defense tissues.Asiatic acid can dissolve the outer wax film of bacteria and be killed by other drugs or body defense tissues.Asiatic acid and Asiaticoside can be used externally to promote wound healing, stimulate granulation, promote epidermal keratinization or epidermal regeneration, and help to generate connective tissue.It works better with phospholipids, and has obvious effect on eliminating acne and acne on the face. Centella asiatica extract can reduce the production of pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-1, MMP-1), improve and repair the skin's own barrier function, thus preventing and correcting the disorder of skin immune function. Therefore, the anti-inflammatory activity of Centella asiatica extract can also be used in post-sun repair, anti-allergy and soothing cosmetics.

Skin whitening
Centella asiatica extract also has a strong antioxidant effect, which can inhibit the activity of free radicals, weaken melanin deposition, improve skin blood circulation, renew skin cell regeneration, help melanin smooth metabolism out of the body, and make skin smooth, tender, white and bright after use.

Repair scar
After years of scientific research, it has been found that Centella asiatica extract can promote the synthesis of collagen I and III, and also promote the secretion of mucopolysaccharide (such as the synthesis of hyaluronic acid), increase the skin's water retention, activate and renew skin cells, and make the skin soothe, improve and full of luster; Other studies have found that Centella asiatica extract also has the activation effect of fibroblast gene, which can enhance the vitality of skin basal layer cells, maintain skin elasticity and compactness, and smooth small wrinkles on the face. Because asiaticoside can promote collagen synthesis and angiogenesis in the body, stimulate granulation growth and other important functions, it is conducive to wound healing, scar repair, and also plays a preventive role in pregnancy marks.

5.Pharmacological study of Centella asiatica extract related to cosmetics

Test items Concentration Effect description
Effect of asiaticoside on proliferation of human keratinocytes cultured in vitro 100ug/mL Promotion rate:116.1(blank 100)
Effect of asiaticoside on proliferation of human fibroblasts cultured in vitro 50ug/mL Promotion rate:127.1(blank 100)
Promotion of collagen production by asiaticic acid 10umol/L Promotion rate:150(blank 100)
Promotion of asiaticoside on collagen production 10umol/L Promotion rate:255(blank 100)
Inhibition of asiaticoside on the viability of scar fibroblasts 0.5mg/mL Inhibition rate:59.7%
Inhibition of asiaticoside on mouse ear swelling 0.5umol/per Inhibition rate:45.1%

6.Application of Centella asiatica extract&recommended dose

Centella asiatica extract has a variety of skin care biological activities, which can be used in cosmetics such as whitening, anti-oxidation, acne and anti-inflammatory, scar repair, etc; Asiaticoside has estrogen-like effect and can stimulate the growth rate of hair, so it can be used in shampoo with the dosage of about 0.05%.

Application of Centella asiatica extract in cosmetics at home and abroad:

Country Brand Product
Japan Dr.Ci:Labo Mild sun protection for sensitive skin SPF40(Mild UV for Sensitive Skin)Moisturizing water gel(O2 Herbal Gel OxygenCharge)
Melty Wink Eye cream
POLA B.A The Lotion
Switzerland Lapernie La prairie Skin Caviar Liquid Lift
South korea AHC Hydra Soother Mask)Private Real Eye CreamSunscreen cream SPF50+ PA+++
Su:m37 Secret Programming EssenceWater-Full Rebalancing Gel LotionSunscreen SPF30+ PA+++
MISSHA Time Revolution The FirstTreatment Essence
USA CLINIQUE Turnaround Revitalizing Lotion



Estee Lauder Nutritious Radiant Vitality Energy Lotion Intense MoistNutritious Rosy Prism Radiant Gel Emulsion
Mentholatum Lefujie anti-acne care toner
Artistry Essentials Replenishing Eye Creme
Frank GUERLAIN Orchidee Imperiale Exceptional Complete Care The Cream
LOREAL Revitalift Anti-Wrinkle + Firming Day creamRevitalift Eye Cream
Cetaphil Rich Hydrating Night Cream
China 薇诺娜 舒敏保湿修红霜薇诺娜熊果苷美白保湿精华乳
百雀羚 水嫩倍现盈透精华水水嫩精纯保湿水凝露防晒隔离乳 SPF30+PA+++水嫩精纯明星活肤水
相宜本草 红景天幼白抗氧洁面膏
膜法世家 樱桃深透补水蚕丝面膜贴
佰草集 菁萃原液·银杏净透(银杏叶)面膜
法兰琳卡(FRANIC) 芦荟胶

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7.Recommended formula of Centella asiatica extract

Callus oil:

Ingredient Content(%) Ingredient Content(%)
Asiatic acid 0.75 Methyl paraben 0.3
Vaseline 25.0 Essence 0.3
Lanolin 35.0 Water Others
Liquid paraffin 22

Whitening lotion:

Ingredient Content(%) Ingredient Content(%)
Asiaticoside 2.0 Solid paraffin 5
Beeswax 10.0 Butyl paraben 0.4
Liquid paraffin 4.0 Sodium hydroxide 0.1
Glycerol monostearate 7.0 Borax 0.2
Dehydrated sorbitol polyoxyethylene ether 2.0 Essence Appropriate amount

Essence liquid:

Ingredient Content(%) Ingredient Content(%)
Centella asiatica extract 10 Rose Dew 45
Vitamin E 1 Pomegranate extract 17
Lavender essential oil 6 drops Fermented red ginseng extract 10
Rosewood essential oil 4 drops Rose essential oil 3  drops
Phospholipid PMB 0.5 PMA (Thickener) 1
Hyaluronic acid 10 Olive oil (solubilizer) 2
Hemp seed oil 1 Pomelo seed extract 1
Marten oil 1

Preparation method:
During the preparation, the oil phase components (hemp seed oil, mink oil, vitamin E and various essential oils), thickeners and solubilizers are mixed evenly, and then the water phase components are slowly added into the oil phase, stirring until uniform, in which the pomelo seed extract is the later added component. Rose essential oil has good permeability and fusion, can stimulate various metabolic reactions of skin cells, activate cell regeneration ability, inhibit the activity of oxygen free radicals and control the oxidation of tyrosinase, have the anti-aging effect of light spots, and help the skin to absorb other components.

Whitening and freckle-removing lotion:

Ingredient Content(%) Ingredient Content(%)
Centella asiatica extract 6 Angelica dahurica Extract 8
Rose extract 1 Pueraria lobata extract 3
Platycodon extract 4 Aloe meat extract 10
Pearl powder 5 Artemisia wormwood extract 2
Glycyrrhiza Glabra 8 Papain 1
Vitamin E oil 6 Vitamin B6 1
Water 40

Preparation method:
Take other raw materials except pearl powder, papain, vitamin E oil and vitamin B6, mix them evenly, heat them and keep them at 50 ° C, heat them for 40-60 minutes, stir them evenly, and naturally cool them to room temperature; Add pearl powder, papain, vitamin E oil and vitamin B6, and then ultrasonic vibration for 10-20min to obtain whitening and freckle removing lotion.

Repair cuticle lotion:

Ingredient Content(%) Ingredient Content(%)
Skin conditioner Centella asiatica extract 3 Golden Chamomile Extract 1
Althaea Officinalis Root Extract 1
Plant flower water Verbena flower water 10 Bitter orange flower water 5
Lavender Water 59.7
Humectant 1,3-propanediol 7 1,3-Pentanediol 0.5
Xylitol 3 Biological sugar-1 0.5
Sodium hyaluronate 0.02 Glycerol 2
Preservative Gluconate lactone 0.7
Deionized water Add 100

Preparation method:
(1) Add humectant and deionized water into the mixing pot according to the formula dosage, heat to 60-80 ° C, and stir until the mixture is uniform;
(2)When the temperature drops to 35-45 ° C, add plant flower water and skin conditioner to the mixing pot according to the formula dosage, and stir evenly until it is completely dissolved;
(3) Add preservatives into the mixing pot according to the formula dosage, and stir until the mixture is uniform;
(4)Take samples for inspection, filter the material after passing the inspection, and control the pH value at 5-7.

Moisturizing lotion:

Ingredient Content(%) Ingredient Content(%)
Centella asiatica extract 3 Angelica dahurica Extract 10
Passion flower extract 4 Lavender extract 5
Platycodon extract 1 Aloe meat extract 16
Ginseng extract 1 Squalane 10
Papain 1 Olive oil 5
Vitamin B6 3 Ginkgo biloba extract 5
Walnut oil 3 Water 30

Preparation method:
Take other raw materials except squalane, papain, olive oil and vitamin B6, mix them evenly, heat them and keep them at 50 ° C, heat them for 40-60 min, stir them evenly, and naturally cool them to room temperature; Add squalane, papain, olive oil and vitamin B6, and then ultrasonic vibration for 10-20min to obtain moisturizing lotion.

8.Safety of Centella asiatica extract

● The Announcement on the List of Names of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials issued by the State Food and Drug Administration in 2014 and the List of Chinese Names of International Cosmetic Raw Materials Standards issued by the China Flavor Association in 2010 both use asiaticic acid and asiaticoside as cosmetics raw materials;
● The American Cosmetics Association (CFTA) also uses asiaticic acid and asiaticoside as cosmetics raw materials;
● Centella asiatica extract was also included in the List of Used Cosmetic Ingredients approved and discussed by the Ministry of Health of the People's Republic of China in 2001.

9.Storage

Storage method: Please place it in a dry and ventilated place to avoid direct sunlight and high tempe

Hunan Nuoz Biological Technology Co. has invested a lot of money and time in developing centella products. We have not only planted over 1000 acres of organic centella, but have also set up a special breeding department to improve centella varieties. And now ,the centella extract have been well received by the market.
Our centella extract products are very popular with customers in the USA and Europe and are also sold as an important cosmetic ingredient in India, Japan, Korea and South East Asia.


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